Grace Coddington’s guide to the Hamptons

Both my boyfriend, [hair stylist] Didier Malige, and I had friends like Patrick Demarchelier and Calvin Klein with houses in East Hampton when we bought ours in the late ’80s. I remember driving around with Patrick’s architect; he wanted to show me a house that he had just built on spec. I wasn’t really looking for a brand new house: I was looking for a wonderful old house. But the thing about old houses here is that they’re all along the road. And we have cats. I couldn’t risk one getting run over so we had to find something much further back. We ended up in a little corner, about one mile from the beach, in Wainscott.

I travel up from Manhattan on the Jitney bus. It’s great: you just sleep and it always gets you here quickly – about two to three hours – because the drivers know all the best routes. When I was creative director at Vogue, we’d come here all the time to shoot. I’ve done a lot, particularly with Arthur Elgort, who has a house in Southampton, plus Steven Klein, Craig McDean and Bruce Weber, who has a place in Montauk. 

I like the sound of the waves. It reminds me of being back home where I grew up in North Wales

One of my favourite shoots we did here was with Arthur and the late Scottish model Stella Tennant – the one where she’s diving into a pool in her wellies. At the time, nobody wanted her at Vogue because she wasn’t the perfect blonde, but I was desperate to get her in the magazine. We had to do a bit of lying to fly her over from Scotland – “Claudia Schiffer, no, sorry she’s totally not available” – but somehow when Arthur shot her, the toughness about her fell away. She just looked like a really pretty girl, and funny as hell, which she was. After that, she was accepted by Vogue. 

While here, I’d recommend taking the ferry to Shelter Island. I find ferries very romantic. You can drive your car on, or just walk on and off. It only takes five minutes or so on the water, but it’s very pretty when it’s not stormy – although I like the sound of the waves crashing and rolling. It reminds me of being back home where I grew up in North Wales.

We don’t tend to go out to eat that much here but when we do, I like Sant Ambroeus, which is also big in the city. I’ll order the langoustines and usually a Campari on the rocks, or with soda if I’m not feeling so brave. Otherwise we’ll go to Pierre’s, where I gravitate towards the moules. The Seafood Shop, which opened in 1970 as a family-owned institution, is also right near us; it changed owners but he’s kept it much the same. It’s where all the locals tend to flock for their bisque, chowder and rolls. They host an annual New Year’s Day dip in the sea, raising money for charity. I’ve yet to participate myself – too cold – but it’s certainly fun to watch. 

Everyone laughs when I say I shop at Loaves & Fishes because it’s so expensive, but they make the most delicious pies. They close every year for one month in January and I’m kind of lost without them. From salads to homemade soups and salmon, everything is always super-fresh. Its lobster is some of the best, and comes doused in a special creamy sauce. Sometimes I have to treat myself to a little canister. The owners also run an inn in Bridgehampton, which I’d imagine is a nice place to stay. Everything they do is not shoddy.

Another place I love to go is Pike Farms in Sagaponack. I don’t know any corn that has tasted as good as theirs. It’s monumental: so fresh, so sweet. They pick it up to three times a day.

Beyond food, there are all the comforts here because it’s the Hamptons. A spa I like, Naturopathica, is great for a massage or facial. I’ve only had about two in my life; they’re not something I know a whole lot about. But I like whatever they do to me. 

The Hamptons are growing at the rate of knots. There are all these McMansions popping up, which I really don’t get the point of. Who needs 20 bedrooms, 30 bathrooms? But so long as I can keep my little corner free from that – I’m currently protected by a bamboo forest that’s growing in our garden – it’s OK. I feel very peaceful here.