Why khaki should be your new neutral

Deep green has taken a powerful hold. At Fendi and Ferragamo, the colour appeared on leather coats, shift dresses and thigh-high waders. Bottega Veneta paired cocooning coats in moss-green wool with matching trousers; Saint Laurent spun khaki-coloured hosiery fabric into gossamer-fine sheer dresses, pencil skirts and pussy-bow blouses; and Burberry’s models debuted duffel coats, bomber jackets and floor-skimming kilts in varying shades of sludge.

First adopted by British troops in Peshawar in 1846, after Lieutenant-General Sir Harry Lumsden noticed that their red uniforms were targets for snipers in the arid countryside, the colour continues to be associated with military uniform and field clothing. Today, it is synonymous with President Zelenskyy, who retired his politician’s suits in favour of an olive-green T-shirt soon after Russia invaded Ukraine, in an act of solidarity with Ukraine’s soldiers.

Demand for clothing that is functional and timeless points to deep green’s wider appeal, according to Clare Smith, senior colour strategist at trend forecasting agency WGSN. “We are seeing designers opt for colours that offer consumers versatility, stability and longevity,” says Smith. “There’s also an element of these being used to bring a sense of warmth and protection, again driven by consumer attitudes in uncertain times.” 

I like its extreme versatility. It’s timeless

The resurgence of the colour might also be seen as an evolution of the quiet-luxury trend – the buzzy term for stealth-wealth style largely played out in black, white and beige – and our continued desire for practical staples. French designer Isabel Marant, whose particular brand of boho-chic puts a luxe spin on the everyday, has introduced slouchy boiler suits, fringed coats and shearling blouson jackets in a mélange of earthy browns and khakis, pairing them with leopard-print tights and snake-print leather trousers for added bite. “I’ve always loved these shades,” she says, since they are “versatile non-colours that can be easily mixed with anything”. Lorenzo Serafini, creative director of Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, agrees. His AW24 collection – inspired by Hitchcock heroines – ran the gamut from prim, high-necked mottled-olive dresses to forest-green tailored shirt dresses and zesty duchesse overcoats. “I like its extreme versatility,” he says. “It’s timeless and unseasonal. It’s an elegant shade and easy to incorporate into a wider palette.”

As for how to wear the trend, consider a “well-tailored khaki trouser or jacket as a base that can anchor any outfit”, says Liberty’s creative stylist Hannah Edgar. Though, for a contemporary update, she suggests layering khaki pieces with sequins or playful prints. “It proves it can be a dynamic choice for any wardrobe.”