Ini Archibong’s guide to the quiet cool of Neuchâtel

I grew up in LA and went to Singapore after school to learn about the worlds of luxury and watches. I had always wanted to see Switzerland, so in 2014 I applied for a luxury programme in Lausanne and I fell in love with the country from that very first trip. I took the train everywhere – to school, to other cities, to the lakes – and experienced my first real winter. I love the orderliness, cleanliness and the natural beauty here. 

I now live in the small town of Neuchâtel, which reminds me of my hometown, Pasadena. There are many parks; everyone is either walking, cycling or hiking; and you can hear the birds sing. I love the small-town vibe. I live on Lake Neuchâtel in a flat with a private beach, and with woods and a stream nearby. The only challenge has been the language; I studied German in high school, but Neuchâtel is French-speaking. I have just enough words to get by – but I’m learning. 

While Geneva or Zürich would be more convenient for my work, the beauty and anonymity is worth the two-hour commute to the airport. I’ve lived in LA, Singapore and Basel, but prefer solitude, away from the hustle and bustle.

My seven-year-old daughter lives in Basel: I pick her up on Fridays and we head straight to the lake. She grew up in Basel, so I love watching her being able to go places solo and swim with swans – it’s so unusual! – and she’s been skiing since she was three years old. Some areas have more of a French Riviera feel, but there are also very rural parts. 

I prefer solitude, away from the hustle and bustle

If you come for a visit, there are two places to stay – the Beau-Rivage, where my parents check in when they’re over, and the Hôtel Palafitte. The first is authentic and traditional; it’s like my Cheers – everyone knows our names. The restaurant there – O’terroirs – is the place to see and be seen, and is a great place for meetings. As Neuchâtel is the quiet hub of the watch industry, I’ll often have lunch there with Philippe Delhotal, creative director of Hermès Horloger. Hôtel Palafitte is more contemporary. The “pavilions” were built in 2002 as part of the Swiss national exhibition Expo and 24 of these are on stilts that jut out into the lake, which makes it feel unique. 

My daughter loves to run around Neuchâtel Castle – a beautiful Gothic building high on the hill – and visit the surrounding Old Town. There are so many galleries and art spaces here: Palais Galerie and WhiteSpaceBlackBox are two of the best. The latter is a modern home on the lake where they have an artists’ residency; it’s a real hub of creative experimentation.

A lot of pizza gets consumed in our lives, and Tony’s Bar is a favourite. The only issue is that the hours are so un-American and erratic. We are also obsessed with a pizza place inside the train station, L’Antidote Lounge Bar, that has a full DJ set-up and a dancefloor. On the other end of things, Restaurant de l’Hôtel DuPeyrou, an old-world maison with a beautiful French garden, is very special. But generally, it’s all about fish from the lake – fried pike or perch – which is the opposite of fancy. In summer, restaurants put tables on terraces and you just eat fish and chips and swim. Many are in remote nooks that are primarily accessible by boat.

Neuchâtel has its own wine – a rosé called Oeil de Perdrix, or “eye of the partridge” – that looks like something your grandma might drink. It has a very strong, particular taste and you won’t find it elsewhere. And of course, this is the home of chocolate: Walder is considered one of the best in Switzerland. Watch and jewellery shops are strong, too. Michaud specialises in current timepieces – Rolex, Tag Heuer, Chopard – but also does repairs, and feels very friendly. Curtit is a vintage watch shop, while The 1916 Company is a major global reseller. In terms of great design, I like Menghini for contemporary furniture and lighting by brands such as Foscarini and Alessi.

The beauty of this place is that it’s never going to change. People don’t leave from one generation to the next, and there are no major upheavals. Most people think of it as a train stop on the way to Geneva or Lausanne, but when I say I live here, their eyes light up. If you know, you know…