Boho wedges are back

One of the more memorable visuals from the AW24 fashion collections in February came courtesy of Chloé. A group of show attendees – including Sienna Miller, Jerry Hall and Pat Cleveland – all sat front row wearing giant, near-identical platform wedges. It was an orchestrated throwback to the mid-2000s, when the chunky wooden heels epitomised boho style, and an affirmative declaration from the house that the wedge is back in earnest.

Elevation pitch

Chloé leather and wood Maxime sandals, £925

Maryam Nassir Zadeh leather Olympia wedges, £475, ssense.com

Paris Georgia leather Valentina wedges, £510

Jimmy Choo satin and faux-pearl Sacoria 85 wedges, £1,496

Saint Laurent patent-leather La Scandale 110 sandals, £850

Christian Louboutin leather and raffia Ariella Zeppa wedges, £690

Gianvito Rossi leather wedges, £615, mytheresa.com

Of course, the shoe pre-dates the turn of the millennium, and even the ’60s and ’70s, when bohemianism memorably took hold of fashion. Most credit Salvatore Ferragamo for first popularising the style, when the designer introduced a cork wedge to the Italian market in the 1930s, owing to a shortage of the steel he usually used for his heels.

They have since come to epitomise a certain casual glamour. “Wedge sandals have long been popular with our customers for adding height while maintaining comfort, especially for parties or vacations,” says Mytheresa chief commercial and sustainability officer Richard Johnson. He cites Valentino, Jimmy Choo, Gianvito Rossi, Christian Louboutin and – of course – Chloé as champions of the style. “Some of the hottest brands have brought out subsequently bestselling ‘it’ wedge styles, bringing this shape back into the spotlight with more of a fashion edge.” Johnson suggests pairing the heels with “flowy dresses, skirts or under a pair of wide-leg jeans” for an easy day-time look. 

Wedges can pull double-duty, too. Phoebe Philo, the former Celine creative director who returned to fashion with her own brand late last year, has made the wedge heel part of her new ready-to-wear collection; her version is a sleek, all-black style with a simple thong strap, which easily brings the shoe into eveningwear territory. Similarly, contemporary brand Paris Georgia, designed by Paris Mitchell Temple and Georgia Cherrie, creates strappy styles that work well with dressed-up outfits. “We’re both naturally drawn to [wedges] as they add an element of practicality to a heel,” says Cherrie. “You can wear them all day, although we wanted to ensure they feel occasion-appropriate too, so we designed with them a sculptural heel, adding a sense of elevation to the classic wedge.”